Devastating news for the omakase economy.
Also: early signs we’re entering a bear market in Caesar salad.
This week, you might have noticed that Feed Me’s guest columnists have been taking the wheel.
wrote about the changes we’ll be seeing in Hollywood next year.
Anonymous Transit Expert wrote about the spaces that moved him (literally and figuratively) the most this year.
And today, J.Lee, Feed Me’s brilliant Semi-Anonymous Restaurant Critic has a new entry for his column, Expense Account.
“I tried doing a typical ‘Best Of’ list, but honestly…don’t think I loved that many new things this year,” he told me. “I’ve read everyone’s lists and I got bored. I decided the idea of a ‘Buy/Sell’ list would be fun for Feed Me readers. It’s so stupid and makes no sense but it’s fun I think.”
Readers, I promise you it makes sense. In fact, it’s outstanding and I’m so proud to close out the year with such a first-string trio of columnists. Enjoy and react!
Expense Account is a series we’re trying out on Feed Me, written by semi-anonymous restaurant critic JLee. In this report, you’ll be reading about Business Guy Restaurants — the bistros, sushi spots and lounges that are best rationalized with the involvement of a corporate card. You can read his last report from Balthazar on Election Night here.
EXPENSE ACCOUNT: 2025 Buy/Sell List
Sell cocktails
Starting with a big one. I’m selling cocktails. Drink wine like an adult, or take a shot, or eat food. These things are all more effective than a cocktail.
Buy mini cocktails
Recently, I wrote about the miniature cocktails they have at Le Veau D’or. They’re about shot sized, maybe slightly larger, but they’re not shots, they’re cocktails just small! A tiny cocktail is all you ever really need. Imagine a tiny little martini glass. I’ve heard this exists somewhere, but I want to see them everywhere. $12 for a Ratatouille-sized martini, with a tiny little lemon twist. Literally I’ll open up my wallet, just take my money. I’m down to buy most things miniature, really.
Hold martinis
Yes, be prepared for this list to be full of contradictions and completely baseless opinions. My girlfriend likes her martinis extra, extra dry - “in and out”. Martinis for her are about tricking herself into thinking that she’s not just drinking a big, cold glass of vodka. I’m not necessarily buying delusions, but I’m down to hold them.
Buy sake
Yes, I am biased, but sake is a true thinking person’s drink. This is not your takeout spot’s hot sake. There’s so much interesting sake coming into the states lately, especially in New York City (ask for Nama Nama). And now that Dimes Square has its first sake bar, Sake Bar Asoko, it’s time for sake to have its big moment. The vibe is kind of like if wine had a baby with a martini.
Sell omakases
On the flip side, New York is well past peak omakase. Of course, every few years a place like Sho comes around and changes the game (whatever I can’t afford it, and even if I could, a reservation is impossible to get). Every week in New York there’s a new mid-priced omakase, the quality is terrible. Go on Resy, try to make a same-day reservation, it’s basically an omakase ghost town. The truth is, to open an omakase these days, all you need is a fridge, a cutting board, and a few paper hats.
Sell Industry
I know this one will be controversial with the readers of this Substack, but Industry is cooked. The last season was rushed and weak and played too much into fan service. The final episode of the season was awful (that weird montage??) and broke the whole Industry world wide open. This is almost never a good thing. Think of Westworld S2. That being said, can’t wait for Yasmine’s wedding!
Buy Myha’la
She’s amazing. Part of the reason I didn’t love the last season of Industry is that Harper was hardly even in it. Her episode (you know the one) was the best episode of the season, and that scene was one of the best scenes of the year. Afterward, she was weirdly absent. Let her cook, give her a good movie role. I was hoping they’d let her play American Psycho.
Hold flour tortillas
Flour tortillas have been having a moment for a year or two, but they rock (Vista Hermosa, Bordertown, Son del North). The bar has been raised; the game has been forever changed. It’s looking increasingly like fatty, translucent flour tortillas are becoming the standard here in New York and I’m all for it.
Buy Maxi’s Noodles
This broth is high art. It is a beautiful golden elixir that envelops your whole palate. Deeply savory, a touch of sweetness, balanced with an almost floral finish, it’s both comforting and unbelievably complex. Great food and great art always have a certain je ne sais quoi that hooks you and keeps you captivated. Like a great perfume, there must always be a note which you can’t quite put your finger on. Something maybe a little funky, something deep, something primal that lingers, and keeps you coming back for another sniff, another sip. Maxi’s broth is full of these moments. In 2025, they are opening a Manhattan location. Watch this become the next Flushing chain a la Xian, Nan Xiang, Joe’s steamed rice rolls to really blow up.
Buy Pepperidge Farm
These cookies never cease to amaze me. They have something for everyone, and they know where to draw the line. They never go too crazy or chase trends. Recently, I had their mint chocolate chip Milanos. I don’t know what compelled me to buy them — I don’t generally like mint chocolate — but they are a true masterpiece of texture and flavor. Time to sell your Tate’s stock.
Sell the giant Goldfish at Time and Tide
I’ve not been to Time and Tide. I just really hate seeing the giant Goldfish cracker on Instagram for whatever reason. I’m sure it’s delicious. I’ve heard nothing but good things. I just hate his stupid little smile.
Sell Caesar salads.
Holding martinis and selling Caesars might seem a bit strange. For many people, they go hand in hand. In 2024 we reached peak Caesar. Every restaurant does not need its own Caesar rendition. You can eat a salad without it being covered in a salty creamy dressing. I love a simple refreshing salad à la Via Carota. The salad at Ops is a favorite of mine. My personal favorite salad of the year is the classic salad at Hillstone. More of whatever that is please (a chopped Cobb?)
Buy the cheese plate from McSorley’s all day.
I’m honestly not even a McSorley’s guy like that, but this is the best, most singular dish in New York City. It is brave. It is bold. It is beautiful. As you eat this simple dish, you realize there is food and then there is cuisine. This is cuisine.
It is greater than the sum of its parts in a way that’s almost unimaginable when you are thinking about it from the outside. You feel a bit bamboozled. How can saltines, a bit of cheddar, sliced white onions, and spicy mustard be so good? To be so completely effortless, so cool, confident, and composed, is something I think we all can aspire to. I want to be this cheese plate. This dish is a nice hard slap in the face. The good kind. Please sir, may I have another?
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